Accra is not a monument city. It has a handful of important sites, but what makes it worth visiting is the ordinary texture of it — the markets, the street food, the music, the coastline, and the fact that people talk to you.
Before you land
- Check whether you need a visa. ECOWAS and, since 2025, all African nationals enter visa-free. — Ghanaian visas
- Yellow fever certificate. Required, and checked at Kotoka.
- Bring a UK-style three-pin adapter. Ghana uses 230V with Type D and G sockets.
- Arrange malaria precautions with a travel clinic before you come. — Malaria and health
- Book somewhere for the first few nights before you arrive.
Arriving
Kotoka International Airport (ACC) is close to the city — Terminal 3 for international flights.
- Get a SIM at the airport or at a network shop the same day. — SIM cards
- Change money at a forex bureau, not at the airport counter, for a better rate. ATMs work.
- Use Bolt, Uber or Yango rather than the airport taxi rank, unless you have agreed a fare.
- Immigration will check your yellow fever certificate and your return ticket.
What to see
History
Jamestown and Ussher Town — old Accra. The lighthouse, the fishing harbour, colonial-era buildings in various states, boxing gyms that have produced world champions, and some of the best street photography in West Africa. Go with a local guide; there are good walking tours, and they are worth it.
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park — the mausoleum and museum of Ghana’s first President, on the site where he declared independence in 1957. Central, compact, and the essential stop if you want to understand modern Ghana.
W.E.B. Du Bois Memorial Centre — the house where Du Bois spent his final years and is buried, in Cantonments. Quiet, and moving.
Independence Square (Black Star Square) — the arch, the parade ground, the Eternal Flame. Vast and empty most days.
Christiansborg (Osu) Castle — a Danish-built slave fort, later the seat of government.
Beyond Accra
Cape Coast and Elmina castles — two to three hours west. UNESCO World Heritage sites, and the most significant sites of the transatlantic slave trade on this coast. The dungeons and the Door of No Return are extremely difficult to visit and, for many people of African descent, the reason they came to Ghana. Allow a full day, and allow yourself time afterwards.
Kakum National Park — rainforest canopy walkway, near Cape Coast, often combined with the castles.
Aburi Botanical Gardens — an hour north, in the hills. Cooler, green, and a good half day.
Ada and the Volta estuary — east, where the Volta meets the sea.
Markets and neighbourhoods
Makola Market — the central market. Enormous, overwhelming, and the commercial heart of the city.
Osu — Oxford Street, restaurants, bars, shopping.
Jamestown on a Saturday.
Labadi Beach (La Pleasure Beach) — busy, lively, with music and horses. Weekends especially.
Arts Centre — crafts and souvenirs, near the coast. Negotiate.
Eating
Do not spend your visit in international restaurants.
Waakye for breakfast, banku and tilapia in the evening, kelewele from a roadside stand at night, and jollof at some point so you can form an opinion.
Getting around
Bolt, Uber and Yango are cheap and the practical default for a visitor. Around ₵25 for a short off-peak trip.
Trotros cost a fraction of that and are an experience in themselves. Try at least one. — Trotro guide
Traffic is severe from about 6:30am to 9:30am and 4pm to 7:30pm. Plan around it.
Practical
Money. MoMo runs the country, but as a short-term visitor you will mostly use cash and cards. Carry small notes. Many small vendors take cash only.
Bargaining is expected at markets and with taxis, not in shops and restaurants.
Greetings matter. Greet before you ask for anything. Ɛte sɛn will change your trip. — Learning Twi and Ga
Dress. Ghanaians dress smartly. Beachwear is for the beach.
Photography. Ask before photographing people, and do not photograph military installations, the airport or government buildings.
Safety. Accra is comparatively safe. Ordinary city precautions: watch your bag in crowds, avoid empty beaches at night, use registered transport.
Emergency: 112. — Emergency numbers
When to come
December and January are the best months — the driest, coolest nights, and the busiest social calendar. December in Accra is a season of its own, with a large diaspora presence, festivals and concerts.
Avoid the heart of the major rainy season in June if you can.
If you decide to stay
A lot of people do.