Rice and beans cooked together with dried millet or sorghum leaves, which turn the whole thing a deep reddish brown. The name comes from Hausa.

It is served from a bowl at a roadside table, mostly at breakfast and lunch, with as many accompaniments as you want piled on: shito, gari, spaghetti, boiled egg, fried plantain, salad, and meat or fish.

It is the first thing to try in Accra, and the price of a plate is the index most people actually use to judge inflation.

What to eat in Accra